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From a Joke to a Global Icon: The Lacoste Story
A tennis match, a crocodile, and a fashion revolution.
Think Tank
April 05, 2025 • Estimated Reading Time: 12 minutes
Remember the days when school uniforms felt like a burden — rigid, itchy, and oddly shaped? Now imagine playing an intense tennis match in something like that. Sounds impossible, right?
But that’s exactly what René Lacoste had to deal with — until he decided to stitch a crocodile onto a soft polo and change fashion forever.
This is the story of how a tennis player, a crocodile joke, and a white polo shirt turned into a billion-dollar fashion empire.
This is The Lacoste Story
Let’s dive right in!
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Table of Contents
The Young Gentleman Who Chose Tennis
René Lacoste wasn’t your typical rags-to-riches story. Born in 1904 into a wealthy French family, expectations were high — perhaps a government official, a banker, or some other dignified role.
But René had other plans.
At 15, he fell in love with tennis. His father wasn’t impressed. So he cut a deal: become a world champion in 5 years, and he could pursue tennis seriously.
Challenge accepted.
René trained like a man possessed — waking up early, drilling his shots, studying opponents. After years of grueling practice and heartbreak (including a first-round Wimbledon exit in 1922), he broke through. By 1926, he became World No. 1 and even helped France win the prestigious Davis Cup.
They called him The Crocodile. Not just because of a bet involving a crocodile leather suitcase (more on that later), but because of his relentless playing style — once he latched onto a point, he never let go.
The Birth of the Crocodile
Here’s where it gets interesting.
In 1927, René spotted a stylish crocodile leather suitcase in a Boston shop. He told his captain he’d win the upcoming match in exchange for it.
He won — but the suitcase was already sold.
Meanwhile, American journalists were already calling him “The Crocodile” for his tenacity on the court. A friend, Robert George, sketched a crocodile and had it embroidered onto René’s white blazer. He wore it proudly to matches — and just like that, a logo was born.
 Source: https://seeco.in/?s=277735615 |
Five years later, René realized something: the standard tennis outfit — a long-sleeved button-down — was uncomfortable. So he designed a short-sleeved, breathable cotton polo with a crocodile on the chest.
In 1933, he partnered with André Gillier, a knitwear manufacturer, to launch La Chemise Lacoste.
The game had changed — literally and figuratively.
Growth & Expansion: From Courts to Closets Worldwide
1. Early Success & U.S. Market Entry
Lacoste’s journey began with the now-iconic white polo made for tennis — simple, functional, and unlike anything players had worn before.
In 1950, Lacoste teamed up with David Crystal Co., launching in the U.S. as Izod Lacoste. This partnership brought not just the brand overseas, but also color — literally. The classic polo was reimagined in multiple shades, turning a tennis essential into a style statement.
By the 1970s, Lacoste wasn’t just sportswear — it was a status symbol. Worn by cultural icons like John F. Kennedy and Clint Eastwood, the crocodile logo quietly roared into American pop culture.
2. Challenges & Rebranding
But with great popularity came… overexposure.
During the 1980s and 1990s, heavy licensing and mass availability (even at Walmart) diluted Lacoste’s prestige. What once felt exclusive now felt ordinary.
In 1993, after Izod’s parent company ran into financial trouble, Lacoste cut ties and regained full control of its U.S. operations — a turning point.
The big revival came in the 2000s, when Christophe Lemaire took over as creative director. Under his vision, Lacoste evolved beyond polos — entering the world of footwear, fragrances, watches, leather goods, and more, repositioning itself as a modern luxury brand with a sporty soul.
3. Modern Era & Global Revival
In 2007, Lacoste launched its e-commerce platform, making its products globally accessible with just a few clicks — a strategic move to reconnect with younger, digital-first audiences.
Then in 2017, the brand passed the baton — or rather, the crocodile — to tennis legend Novak Djokovic, who signed on as Lacoste’s new global ambassador
At the heart of it all, Lacoste stayed true to its founder’s values. The René Lacoste Foundation, launched in recent years, now supports underprivileged youth through sports and education — ensuring the brand’s legacy is not just worn, but felt.
Challenges & Controversies: When the Crocodile Faced the Heat
Even the most iconic brands aren’t immune to missteps. For Lacoste, the road to global success wasn’t always a smooth serve. Behind the stylish polos and global presence, the brand has faced moments where its legacy was tested — both in the market and in the court of public opinion.
Here’s how Lacoste weathered the storm.
1. Brand Dilution
In the 1990s, Lacoste's rapid expansion came at a cost. The once-exclusive crocodile began popping up on racks at discount chains like Walmart, and the brand’s premium image took a serious hit.
Recognizing the damage, Lacoste took decisive steps. The company restructured its retail strategy, pulled back from over-licensing, and refocused on premium distribution — opting for curated brand experiences and limited-edition collaborations to win back its luxury appeal.
2. Environmental & Ethical Issues
In 2011, Lacoste was accused of environmental negligence, with investigations linking its Chinese suppliers to pollutants in the Yangtze and Pearl Rivers. Harmful chemicals like alkylphenols and perfluorinated compounds were found near facilities producing Lacoste apparel, drawing global criticism.
That same year, Lacoste faced another storm — this time in the world of art.
3. Palestine Art Controversy
Lacoste sponsored the Élysée Prize, a photography competition hosted by a Swiss museum. One of the finalists, Palestinian artist Larissa Sansour, was later dropped from the shortlist, allegedly due to the political themes of her work.
The incident sparked widespread outrage and accusations of censorship. The museum eventually severed ties with Lacoste, and the controversy tarnished the brand’s image in artistic and activist circles.
The Numbers Behind the Brand & Key Success Factors
Lacoste's journey from a sportswear pioneer to a global fashion icon is underpinned by several key success factors:
Iconic Branding: The distinctive crocodile logo, inspired by founder René Lacoste's nickname, has become synonymous with quality and prestige, enhancing brand recognition worldwide.
Innovation: Lacoste revolutionized sportswear by introducing the first polo shirt designed for tennis, seamlessly blending functionality with style.
Strategic Partnerships: Collaborations with renowned athletes and celebrities, such as Novak Djokovic, have elevated the brand's visibility and appeal across diverse markets.
Adaptability: Transitioning from its sportswear origins, Lacoste has successfully positioned itself in the luxury fashion sector, expanding its product range to include footwear, fragrances, watches, and accessories.
Financial Performance
Demonstrating robust growth, Lacoste's revenue approached €3 billion in 2024, marking an 8% increase from the previous year. This momentum aligns with the company's ambitious target of achieving €4 billion in sales by the end of the decade. These elements collectively underscore Lacoste's enduring success and its ability to evolve within the dynamic fashion landscape.
Conclusion
Lacoste’s journey—from a tennis player’s inside joke to a global fashion powerhouse—demonstrates the power of branding, innovation, and adaptability. Despite challenges, the company maintained its legacy by balancing tradition with modern trends. Today, Lacoste remains a symbol of elegance, proving that a simple crocodile emblem can define a billion-dollar empire.
Future Outlook: With continued digital expansion and sustainability initiatives, Lacoste is poised to remain a leader in luxury fashion while honoring its sporting roots.
What We Can Learn from Lacoste
Lacoste’s success isn’t rooted in flashy gimmicks, viral stunts, or over-the-top branding. It’s a masterclass in long-term thinking, quiet confidence, and staying true to your core — even when the world changes around you.
Here’s what the journey of the crocodile teaches us:
1. Start with a Real Problem
René Lacoste didn’t set out to build a global brand. He just wanted to play tennis more comfortably. The long-sleeved button-down shirts of the time were restrictive and impractical. His solution? A breathable, flexible, short-sleeved polo — simple, effective, and designed with intent.
Sometimes, solving your own pain point is the most powerful way to start.
2. Know When to Reinvent
Lacoste’s low point in the 1990s — when it became too common — could’ve been the end of the brand’s prestige. But instead of panicking, it stepped back, rebranded, and refined its strategy. With the right leadership and vision, it climbed back up the ladder and re-entered the luxury space.
Reinvention isn’t failure — it’s survival.
3. Play the Long Game
This is perhaps the biggest takeaway: nothing great happens overnight. Lacoste’s rise spanned decades — from a stitched blazer in the 1920s to a global empire in the 2020s. There were wins, stumbles, and comebacks — but the brand never lost sight of its values.
In a world obsessed with quick wins, Lacoste reminds us: longevity beats virality.
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This brings us to the end of the case study of one of the most iconic brands. I hope you found this case breakdown insightful! If you enjoyed this breakdown, feel free to share it with others who might find it interesting. For more stories of business innovation and success, stay tuned. And if you haven’t subscribed to Think Tank yet, now’s the perfect time!
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Think Tank is a bi-weekly newsletter that simplifies business case studies into engaging, story-driven insights. It’s designed for entrepreneurs, professionals, and curious minds who want real, actionable takeaways without the fluff.
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